Vegan Wine Production: ABC
Winemaking is a complex subject that combines tradition and innovation, especially when it comes to vegan-friendly wines . In this article, we'll only examine the basic aspects of winemaking for red, white, and rosé wines.
1. Destemming and pressing
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Red Wines: In the production of red wines, only the stems are removed to prevent the release of herbaceous tannins, using a gentle pressing. This process is crucial for maintaining the balance of flavors and the quality of the wine.
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White Wines: We opt for direct pressing of the whole bunch with membrane presses, obtaining the free-run must, free of the solid parts such as skins and grape seeds.
2. Composition of the Must
Must is a complex mixture composed mainly of water (70-80%), sugars (15-25%), acids (tartaric, malic, citric), polyphenols, terpenes, minerals and microorganisms. Yeasts, in particular Saccharomyces cerevisiae , responsible for alcoholic fermentation, transforming sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide. There is a big difference between using selected yeasts (specially cultivated to achieve specific aromatic and fermentation profiles) and indigenous yeasts, which are naturally present on the grapes and give the wine a unique character, naturally linked to the terroir.
3. Must Treatments
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Fining and Filtration: These are performed to clarify the must, often aided by temperature control. Animal-derived fining agents such as casein and albumin are not used in vegan wines; instead, potato and pea proteins, and natural clays are used. Often, filtration is not even performed.
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Added Sulfur Dioxide: Sulfites are used to prevent oxidation and browning. The use of added sulfites in organic and vegan wines is limited to the maximum permitted by law.
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Acidity Regulation: In Italy, the use of rectified concentrated must (RCM) is permitted to adjust sweetness, while acidity can be increased with tartaric acid or reduced with calcium carbonate.
4. Red Winemaking
Maceration is the crucial phase that distinguishes red winemaking . During this process, the contact time between the skins and the must determines the extraction of color, structure, and aromas. To obtain a red wine rich in color, structure, and aromas, polyphenol extraction is essential. In the first few days of maceration, anthocyanins, which contribute to the wine's color, are extracted in particular.
Polyphenol extraction is influenced not only by maceration time , but also by other factors such as temperature, the presence of sulfur dioxide, and the ethyl alcohol produced during fermentation. These factors must be carefully managed to achieve the desired profile in the wine. Maceration time is typically 10-15 days; however, for young wines intended for immediate consumption, it can be reduced to 5 days, while for important wines destined for further development, it can extend up to 4 weeks.
Alcoholic fermentation produces energy released in the form of heat, which can damage the aroma and quality of the wine. Temperature is a crucial factor in promoting the extraction of substances and the action of the yeasts. Below 15°C (59°F), the yeast's action is inhibited, above 30°C (86°F), it becomes uncontrollable, and above 37°C (98°F), the yeast's action is halted. The ideal "controlled" temperature is between 25°C and 30°C (77°F and 86°F). In warmer areas, refrigeration of the must is used to maintain these optimal conditions. Fermentation takes place in fermenters, often made of stainless steel, with temperatures controlled between 25°C and 30°C (77°F and 86°F). Techniques such as punching down and pumping over (which we'll discuss later) improve extraction and oxygenation of the must.
5. White winemaking
In white winemaking, there is no contact between the liquid must and the skins , which are immediately removed after gentle pressing. The free-run must emerges, while the stems, skins, and seeds remain in the press until they are removed. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled fermenters, at a lower temperature than for red wines, around 18-20 degrees Celsius, to ensure greater aromatic finesse. Once the yeasts have completed their activity, the wine is racked. Cryomaceration (or cold maceration from 8-10 degrees Celsius down to 0-2 degrees Celsius) is often used to improve extraction during pressing, resulting in a greater quantity of aromatic compounds.
6. Rosé Winemaking
Rosé wines are made with a brief maceration of the pomace in contact with the must , from a few hours to a few days. This gives rosé wines (increasingly popular with the public) organoleptic characteristics similar to white wines, with delicate aromas and a fresh flavor that is well-suited to plant-based cuisine. Low-pigment, low-tannin black grapes can be used, or a blend of white and black grapes can be used. Mixing red and white wine to make a rosé is not permitted .
7. Malolactic fermentation
In the spring following winemaking, lactic acid bacteria can induce malolactic fermentation, converting malic acid into lactic acid. This process makes the wine smoother, enriching it with particularly intense and complex aromas, a must especially for the finest red wines. Be careful, however: lactic acid bacteria aren't called " lactic " because milk is used to produce them, but only because they can produce lactic acid . Therefore, any malolactic fermentation doesn't pose an ethical problem for wine consumption.
8. Maturation and Aging
Once fermentation is complete, the wine is drawn off, eliminating the skins and fermentation lees, spent yeasts, coagulated substances, salts, and solid particles. The pomace, still impregnated with wine must, is dried by pressing (or gentle pressing with horizontal membrane presses). The spent pomace is used in the distillery to produce grappa or, more recently, to produce cosmetics or 100% plant-based fabrics such as apple leather . The wine is not yet ready for bottling and requires maturation in steel or barrels to perfect its balance.
9. Bottling
Bottling is the final step in ensuring the stability of the wine. To avoid contact with air and consequent oxidation problems, fillers that inject inert gases such as nitrogen are used. The most commonly used container for quality wines is glass, an inert material that does not affect the wine's characteristics. Dark glass is normally used to block out ultraviolet rays and avoid the negative effects of light, which accelerates browning and oxidation. Naturally, if the wine does not need to age in the bottle for long and is intended for rapid release or consumption, the bottle can be made of clear glass, ideally recycled. The most common bottle on the market is the "Bordeaux" type, and the most popular size is 0.75 liters. The traditional wine closure system is still the cork, however, alternative solutions are gradually (and finally!) gaining ground, such as the aluminum screw cap , which is more sustainable, 100% recyclable, and infinitely regenerable . On this front, Italian tradition still acts as a "handbrake on," but it's only a matter of time and soon more responsible (and crazy :) consumers will have no doubts about making more sustainable choices.
10. Use of wood in winemaking
Wood is used not only for aging but also for fermentation. The microporosity of wood allows for slow oxygen exchange, resulting in color variations toward garnet and orange in reds, and gold and amber in whites. Aromas feature evolved and ethereal tertiary aromas, notes of spice, cocoa, coffee, dried fruit, vanilla, leather, and tobacco, along with a softer, more balanced flavor. Resting the wine "sur lie," or in contact with the fermentation yeasts, enriches its aroma and structure, especially if periodic "bâtonnage" (a stirring aimed at bringing the yeasts back into suspension) is performed.
Another factor that influences the effect of wood aging is the so-called "passage." If the barrel is new, its wood imparts distinct woody notes, vanilla, melted butter, spices, toasted almonds, coffee, coconut, and smoky notes to the wine. In the first year, the barrique can release up to 50% of its releaseable substances. During the second and third passages, the effect is less pronounced, more gentle and elegant, thus preventing the woody notes from overpowering the wine's true character.
Wine ages more rapidly in barriques (225 liters) than in large barrels (500 liters), thanks to the greater ratio of wood surface area to wine volume. Furthermore, the thickness of barriques is 2.5 cm compared to the 10 cm of large barrels, resulting in quicker transitions and faster evolution. The most prized wood is oak. Small barrels can also be toasted, intensifying their aromatic notes.
Conclusion
Winemaking is a meticulous (some call it "magical") process that requires a combination of traditional and modern techniques to achieve a high-quality product. Each stage, from destemming to bottling, contributes to defining the unique character of each wine, respecting winemaking traditions and industry innovations. The frontier of ethical and sustainable wines —produced with respect for human health, animal welfare, and the environment—is undoubtedly the greatest challenge in modern winemaking.
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